A Canadian Interim – News from Nova Scotia
1. After NYC, Paris, Rome and Los Angeles (3 times), we wanted to take a different track this year. We decided on Halifax and the rest of Nova Scotia. Bill had been there once, to give training, so saw the insides of the hotel room, the course location and one restaurant (he went there the 1st night, and it was so good, returned the 2nd night). Monique had been, one time, camping, when she was 16 and had returned flying in and out of Halifax to give training as well.
2. Just so you know, we did not choose Nova Scotia, because we were mad at Donald Trump (most of LA is), or because of the exchange rate. We just needed a change.
3. The original plan was to do Nova Scotia and Newfoundland but all of the sudden, we realized that we would either be away for two months or not do either place justice. And the logistics would be horrible. See the next point. So Nova Scotia this year, and perhaps Newfoundland the next.
4. We also decided to drive all the way rather than fly and drive. One result was to skip Newfoundland, too much time on the road. However, we have only reached Fredericton and already Bill finds we are spending too much time on the road. Much more respect to our Maritime colleagues, from our working days that did this drive 2/3 times a year.
5. OMG, there is no Uber in Halifax, what are we going to do!!!!!!
6. Just so everyone is aware, Halifax is as Raptor mad as Toronto and the rest of the country. Was the first item on the new, when they won the 1st game. Not the sports news, the real news.
7. Pedistrians are kings/queens in Halifax. No matter what you do cars have to stop. This was explained to me by a lady, when I was about to J-walk and Monique tried to stop me.
Days 1,2,3,4
Unlike the 5 hour flight to LA or the 6 hour to Paris, getting to Halifax took four days. Day 1 (Saturday), first stop in Drummondville to meet up with Monique’s sister Marie, for a quick fast food lunch at A&W. Then on to Québec City, where we stayed in godson David’s condo in Vieux Québec. Bill settled in, while Monique took off with her sister Michèle for some gardening fun. Dinner with David at the Café de Paris which included a ride on the “funiculaireâ€-we had Chateaubriand for three and a wonderful “tarte au sucre†for dessert. Day 2, was croissants and coffees at the Café Maison Smith, close to the condo and then a late family brunch at Le Commandant with Michèle with husband Denis, David with daughter Juliette, nephew Robert with wife Karine and their children Paul and Sophie, Monique’s brother Jean-Pierre, spouse Rachel and their granddaughter Élodie. Bill spent the afternoon napping while Monique and Michèle had more gardening fun. Diner at Oncle Antoine Pub – a European hot dog for Bill (on baguette instead of bun) and French onion soup for Monique. Day 3 was golf with Rachel and Jean-Pierre at their golf club, a visit to their campground, a rest in the afternoon and dinner with David at the Bistro St-Malo. David and Monique shared ‘Boudin’ (blood pudding) and ‘Ris de veau’ (sweetbreads) while Bill had the ‘Lapin’. Day 4, we are up early to early to begin the journey. Started by taking ferry across the St. Lawrence to Lévis and then off to Fredericton. A long drive, with Bill saying to himself every 15 minutes, “God, this was a mistake to drive  Lobster rolls for lunch. The Quality Inn we stayed at, in Fredericton, was wonderful, and really deserves it reputation as one of the best hotels in Canada (It cost us $1, Expedia points). Finally dinner at a place, found on Yelp, described as a Steak and Seafood restaurant – Turns out to be a somewhat suspicious place in a basement behind a shopping centre. However, the food was delicious, at least some of it. Bill’s hot hamburger was wonderful; however Monique’s steak was so so… (What do you expect, when you order a $9 rib steak in a restaurant in the basement of a shopping centre Ahahah!). The waitress was charming. On the way home, we stopped at DQ for blizzards.
Day 5
It is cold!!!!! God, does LA ever look good at the moment. But off to Halifax. It is a much more pleasant drive (only 4 hours). Stopped in Sackville for lunch at the Patterson Family Restaurant. Lunch was, hey it’s the Maritimes, so seafood chowder (perhaps the 1st of many). Arrive in Halifax, and the condo is great, just like in the pictures and so well located! Did a little grocery shopping (can’t believe we are on our spring vacation and are shopping at Loblaws). Then off to Salty’s for our first Nova Scotia dinner. Chosen because it was on the water – we had a great table but were just looking at dark, rainy skies. We started with African Sweet Potatie and Peanut Soup and Lobster Tempura after which Monique has the Quattro Seafood dinner (lobster, shrimps, scallops and salmon) and Bill, the butter poached halibut with risotto. Both were great. A “Blueberry Grunt†for dessert (Pound cake with blueberries, whipped cream and ice cream). A walk home, it is now really cold!!! Can you believe they don’t have Uber in Halifax? So ends out first day in Nova Scotia.
Day 6
It is #$%?&* cold. And the forecast does not look good!!! We are re-thinking our plans! However, after our usual slow start, we decided that the Citadel should be our first stop in Halifax. So we headed up the hill, passing the amazing library on the way. We watched the movie, explaining the Citadel’s history (we will see the main reason in 6 or 7 days), had a quick, very small lunch and then took the tour. Finally did some exploring on our own, including the museum. One of the items on display was an 19 Set, usef for military communications in WW2. Bill was trained in it, when in the militia, in the 60s!!!!! Home for a little organizing and then off to Shucks Seafood and Raw Bar for Happy Hour: half price oysters and wine. Started with one dozen, moved on to a second and decided on a third and then remained for dinner and had lobster rolls. We have had oysters at Rodney’s in Toronto, in New York and a number of places in LA, but these were the best oysters we have ever had! Freshness????? And of course could not resist the Pecan tart – a perfect bite. A cold walk home and then to bed when it was still light!!!
Day 7
Another inside day. Started the day with two old (not quite Paris old, but older than LA) churches and then finished with a 3rd. St. Mary’s Basilica 1870; St.Paul’s (Anglican) 1750 and St. Mathew’s (United) 1749. Then off to the Maritime Museum of the Atlantic which includes displays on the days of sail; Cunard Line; the explosion of 2017; North Atlantic Convey; the Navy; etc. Monique even tried a deck chair on the Titanic… Also part of the Museum is the original 100 year old Roberstson & Son Hardware Ship Chandlery. Had a late lunch /early supper at the Little Oyster Bar – Mussels, Scallop Ceviche and Fish and Chips, followed by a delicious Rum Cake. Looking for something in the evening, off to Yuk Yuk’s which was close by in the Westin and a then late snack.
Day 08
Was overcast, a little rainy and 8° when we started to get moving. Went off to Elle’s Bistro for breakfast: French toast with brie cheese and pecans for Monique and Eggs Benedict with lobster and butter replacing the ham for Bill. Delicious! Good news!!! By the time we finished the sun was out and as we started to walk down to the harbour, we start to strip off layers. Along the way, we passed by Government House, the Town Clock, City Hall, Provincial House (the legislature) and Nova Scotia Art Gallery. Then, we spent the next few hours walking along the harbour boardwalk, with many shops, restaurants, etc. People were out in force because of the weather and many places were full. Stopped at The Stubborn Goat Gastropub for a glass of wine in the sun, overlooking the water. At the end of the boardwalk we made a quick stop at the Farmers’ Market and visited the Immigration Museum, took the tour, watched a film and looked at the exhibits. Supper was pizza at Piatto’s. Large Italian restaurant that serves wood fired pizza and a wide variety of pasta. Apparently began in St.John’s and was so successful, the owner opened a number all over the Maritimes. Started with Pacchi di Prosciutto (basically mozzarella balls wrapped in prosciutto baked in tomato sauce at 900 degrees) to die for! No wonder it made “You’ve got to eat here†list! The pizza and Valpolicella were superb and on par with Anthony’s, our favourite pizza place in Ottawa. Little tortinos for dessert and a nice walk home.
Day 9
We are off the Edna’s for Brunch. It is raining so took the car. According to the guides it is the best brunch in Halifax and they may be right, because there were 3 or 4 breakfast restaurants on the street and Edna’s was the only one with a line-up and we had to wait 15/20 minutes for a table. Started off brunch in our traditional fashion, Bill had a Bloody Caesar (with this being Halifax, came with an oyster on top) and Monique, bubbles. Monique had the Eggs Benedict and Bill, a “Sweet and Salty†(two ricotta pancakes with bacon and sausage in between and a fried egg on top. After breakfast, we headed for the Historical Buildings, which are old buildings that have been renovated and now host shops and restaurants. Again, we are in Halifax, so Bill bought a hand crafted, Maritime wool sweater (made in PEI). Monique, a few gifts. It is still raining, so that’s it for the day. Later in the day, watching the Food Channel, we see hamburgers being made which gives us the urge. Yelp tells us that one of the best hamburgers in Canada is made, about 300m away!!!! How’s that for a coincidence! so Darrell’s it is, for dinner. Monique’s hamburger come with peanut butter and Bill’s with a fried egg (The Hen Den Burger), both came with an assortment of other things. The reviews are probably right, wonderful burgers, certainly beats The Works in Ottawa.
Day 10
We decided to head out to Fisherman’s Cove, a quaint restored 200-year-old fishing village, with many shops and restaurants. It started to pour, when we were half way there but carried one. Had a look at the small museum and went for lunch, that would take the place of dinner. Once again, since this is Nova Scotia, we had Seafood Chowder to start and ordered lobsters. This was the 1st time, since he had an experience with lobster, tequila and red wine, more that 40 years ago, that Bill has ordered a lobster dinner. It was delicious!!! He still maintains that for certain parts such as the legs, body, etc., the amount of work required, is not justified by the rewards. We could not resist the sticky toffee pudding which was huge and delicious. By the time we had finished eating the rain had stopped so managed to walk around a little. A quiet dinner at home!!!
Day 11
The day did not start well!!!! We were awoken at 6:00 AM by a call from our security company that the motion alarm had gone off in our house and should they call the police. @#$%^m, I don’t know!!! So we wake our neighbours up at 5:00 AM. They were so nice!!! they checked our house and it seemed fine, so no police. We owe them big time!!! In Nova Scotia, we had spotted this day a few days ago during the weather forecast which predicted a day of sun. Thus, early in the morning, are off we to the Annapolis Valley. We were not certain how far we would get, Annapolis Royal would have been nice, but we got hungry so stopped in Bridgetown for breakfast. The End of the Line Pub, a favourite haunt of a former colleague of Bill. Again it’s Nova Scotia, so Bill had fried baloney and eggs for breakfast, while Monique stayed with her French toast. After breakfast, off to Hampton Wharf, to see the Bay of Fundy. Bad timing, as the tide was up. Then back to Wolfville/Grand Pre, using rural roads through small towns. Lunch at Luckett Vineyards recommended by a friend of Monique’s – Charcuterie Board and Calamari, and a little wine tasting. Then back to Halifax. Distances are short in Nova Scotia. BBQ steak and salad for dinner, and for dessert, mini donuts from Ol’ School Donuts – a food truck which parks at the Loblaw’s on Tuesdays. Believe us, we would pick-up some every Tuesdays!!!!
Day 12
A rainy day and going to busy next 3/4 days, so didn’t do much. Watched the trials and tribulations of Cassie Nightingale in the morning and then visited the last place on our list, the Naval Museum in the afternoon. It was interesting but slightly disappointing as much of the era that I was interested in, WW II and afterwards, had been taken down, because they were having some type of function!!! Dinner that night was at the Five Fishermen, one of the more famous restaurants seafood in Halifax. Oysters Rockefeller and Lobster Kinilaw to begin, grilled halibut and the Five Fish next, and finished with a mini cheesecake and sorbet. A bottle of Valpolicella helped it along. We had taken a taxi there (threat of rain), but looked better when we finished so walked back, and took a few pictures of things we had seen but had not captured.
Day 13
I guess 13 is indeed bad luck. Our day to take the Lighthouse Route, down the south coast and we left in pouring rain. Our 1st stop was Peggy’s Cove. There are 2 advantages to the rain, the first being we did not have to fight off 100s tourist to get the picture. At one point, Monique was the only one at the lighthouse. The 2nd advantage is no traffic. As we worked our way down to Mahone Bay, still pouring rain, we sometimes had the road to ourselves. We stopped at Bike and Bean Station for scones and latte as a late breakfast. In Mahone Bay, we looked at the famous churches and had lunch. Lunch was at Oh My Cod, and was, of course, cod and chips along with some fried clams. Then, on to Lunenburg, checked into Brigandine Inn, and despite the rain, went off to explore and do a little shopping. Found out that the Bluenose adventure had been cancelled that day, so are hoping for better weather tomorrow. Our room was called the Romantic, because it has a small room attached with a hot tub, so Monique spent late afternoon there. Dinner was at The Grand Banker, which was attached to the hotel. We both had the same thing for dinner, a cup of seafood chowder, then Adams and Knickles scallops with a parmesan risotto. A bread pudding, with a rum sauce, for dessert.
Day 14
Woke up to fair weather(actually bad weather, see later). A quick muffin and coffee and off for our ride on the Bluenose. There were 65 passengers and as we moved away from the dock and motored out of the harbour, the sun came out. Up went the sails, and (now the bad weather), no wind, in the old days they would say we were in the doldrums. Moved around a little, to try to catch the wind and not much luck. Finally, time was up, and we headed back into the harbour and docked. A little disappointed, but still enjoyed the time. We then headed for a late breakfast at the Savvy Sailor where we were not disappointed. The poached eggs in Monique’s Eggs Benedict with lobster and my Savvy Brekki came soft!!!! Decided to head right back to Halifax and start to get ready to move out of the apartment. Dinner was supposed to oysters at Shucks and then a steak upstairs in the steak house. However we both agreed that we had had enough food, so went for the oysters and passed on the steak. After the oysters, headed back along the boardwalk, and shared a small portion of coconut shrimp and chips from a small shop. Interesting enough, there were many restaurants along the walk that had patios then were either empty or had people huddled with blankets. Halifax has not caught up with the rest of the world and discovered heaters.
Pictures from Day 14
Day 15
It is time to head to Cape Breton. Up fairly early, pack everything (how come two people, need a car full of stuff; there was a family of four in the elevator, in Sydney, who had ½ the stuff we have???). It is a sunny day but with a cold wind. A pleasant journey with a stop in New Glasgow for lunch – The Appleseed Cafe. When looking at the pictures, just to be clear, it was not Bill who ordered the fried chicken on waffle sandwich. Finally on to Cape Breton, and a windy (wine not wind) road to Sydney. The hotel is nice with a harbour view (home for 3 days). It is still sunny but still a cold wind. The good news is the forecast is sun until we start for home. We might even get our game of golf. The restaurant in the hotel had 5 stars on Yelp, so decided not to go back into the wind. A citrus beet salad and onion soup to start and then a filet mignon and prime rib for the main. Jar of Joy (NY Cheesecake with coconut curd in a jar) for dessert.
Day 16
Louisburg day!! The history buff in Bill was always fascinated by the French period in Canada, so was really looking forward to Louisburg. Not having been there, it was surprising to see how much of not only the fortress but of the town as well, had been restored by Parks Canada. We took a tour which was mostly of the village. The one thing we learned but not had been aware of was what an economic centre it had been, probably based on fish, but trading with New England, Quebec and Montreal as well as France. Also learned that, many of the workers came in the spring and headed back before winter, unlike Quebec and Montreal.
After the tour, we visited the fortress. Parks Canada has done a great job. There are people everywhere, playing the role of residents/soldiers of the time and explaining what they did. It was well done. The restoration was started in the 1960s and has become the largest reconstruction project in North America. One has to believe that, Allan MacEachen may have been a driving force to pushing it forward. However, two ex-bureaucrats agreed that it would never happen today… Ministers would spend too much time discussing the political ramifications and Deputy Ministers would not have the courage to push it forward.
Another plus, of being here at this time, there were not a lot of people. Our tour group had about 7/8 people, the French group, 4 or 5. In many cases when we talked to the “residents/soldiers” we were the only one around. Louisburg had a 140,000 visitors last year.
For dinner, we walked down the boardwalk, along the seawall, by the Big Fiddle, to Flavour on the Water. Haddock bites and Mussels (maybe the best sauce Monique has ever tasted) to begin and a shared Lobster Club. A wonderful carrot cake for dessert and a lovely walk back to the hotel.
Day 17
The Cabot Trail! “One of the most scenic drives in the worldâ€. It was a beautiful day, it was sunny, the rain had disappeared and it was warm. Short sleeves!!! The pictures from the drive, speak for themselves. It took us about 8 hours to do the drive, many scenic outlooks and a stop for lunch. Lunch was at the Rusty Anchor in Pleasant Bay and just before we visited the Whale Interpretive Centre. We decided not to take up GuaranteedWhales.com on their offer! Lunch was seafood chowder; mussels for Monique and lobster for Bill. Again the time of year was perfect, we couldn’t believe that sometimes we were the only car on the road. We kept on seeing the same people at the lookouts! Speaking of roads, inside the national park, beautiful, outside the park, terrible. In fact, most of the secondary roads are terrible, we are lucky that we still have shocks. Decided on pizza for dinner, so went off to Napoli Pizza (“the best pizza in Sydneyâ€) for dinner. As it turns out, the eating area of the restaurant was not appealing, so decided to take it back the hotel. Went down for dessert – apple crumble (Bill’s is a lot better!) and coffee.
Day 18
Last full day, before we head for home, route yet to be determined. Weather is great – sunny and warm. And guess what, Bill brought 4 pairs of shorts on the trip, and put one pair for the 1st time this morning. We head for the Alexander Graham Bell Museum, the last “must do†thing on our list. It is very interesting, although Bill would have liked to see more displays, films, etc. on the telephone and less on aviation. However, because most of the aviation stuff was done, when he was living in Canada, it was understandable.
Once, the museum was finished, we headed for Bell Bay Golf Course, which is nearby. The weather was great, so we were going to get our game of golf in Cape Breton. It was a wonderful day for golf; we played 18 holes and got a little sunburned. One last lookout view on the way back!
For our last dinner in Nova Scotia, we realized we hadn’t had the Cape Breton speciality, pan fried haddock. As we were both tired, and the restaurant in the hotel Trio, had it on the menu, we stayed in. Monique had the peppered lemon haddock, while Bill had it straight up. A warm brownie with ice cream for dessert.
Only one more blog entry… We leave tomorrow morning so Days 18, 19 and 20 will be completed when we get home.
Pictures for Day 18
Days 19, 20
Time to head home! One look at the hotel breakfast… and we decided we had had enough of it, headed out in so so weather, but as soon as we were on the road, as is always the case, it started to rain. We stopped in Port Hawkesbury, for a late breakfast, at the Fleur-de-Lys Restaurant, Bill’s last chance for baloney and eggs. Then off to Fredericton and nicer weather. After arrival, decided to walk to a restaurant for dinner (St-Hubert), quite a long walk, and then it was not what we wanted (just an ‘Express’) so walked back, cutting through a shopping centre where Bill finally got his new screen protector… Took the car to Swiss Chalet, for a quarter chicken, and chicken and ribs. A stop at our favourite DQ, for a blizzard and peanut butter parfait, on our way back to the hotel.
Got in the car, the next day and set the GPS for Drummondville. When we realized it was only 5 hours and knew it was only another 3 hours home, decided to go all the way! Does this make us honorary Maritimers?
Arrived home and unloaded the car, we do not travel light! Monique was so pleased that Kate and Jamie, who had been staying at our place, got her fresh flowers for her return. Then off to one of our favourite restaurants to celebrate our return home. A good night sleep in our own bed. Nice to be home!!!!!
Next year??? Yet to be determined but the smart money will be on a return to NYC.
Pictures for Days 19-20