News from Rome
1. The choice of cities for 2016 is Rome. Arrivederci Ottawa, Ciao Roma!!!! We are already taking Italian lessons and trip begins April 9, so once again, stay tuned for news.
2. Five days days to go and having our last Italian lesson this evening. Not sure we can speak or understand any Italian but we will not embarrass ourselves with pronunciation when ordering in a restaurant.
3. We are having problems dealing with the “no tipping in restaurants” custom. Everywhere on the internet says there is no tipping. We even asked a waiter and he said “unlike in your country people do not tip here and it is not expected”. At the moment we have decided to continue, but have lowered out standard percentage to 10%. We will see if we are able to adapt!!!!!
4. In our 28 days in Rome we will have eaten more pizza then we usually do in a year!!!!!
5. We can now say the same thing about Caprese Salad.
6. Maybe is all the ruins that are 2000 years old, but Rome is a very dusty city. Everything gets dirty very quickly and when being outside for more that a couple of hours you begin to cough.
7.  The Metro system here is quite good (and crowded), but doesn’t go to certain parts of the city. It took a taxi driver to explain why. They cannot dig in certain parts for fear of running into ruins and bringing the project to a halt.
8. In Paris there was always a 3 course meal and we would split parts of it to guard against weight gain and not to eat too much. Italy is really much more difficult because they have 4 courses meals. The appetizer, the pasta, the main course and the dessert. The result of this, despite equal amount of walking, we expect to put on more weight in Rome then we did in Paris!!! 🙁
Day 1
A long day! Neither one of us had realized that the flight to Rome was 8 and ½ hours!!! By the way, if you have choice between Air Canada and Alitalia, chose Air Canada, the flight wasn’t bad but no comparison to our flight to Paris. Arrival was uneventful, but we now realize that we are jinxed. Since we started these city visits, we have yet to arrive or depart from an air terminal not under construction. We were met at our apartment by our land lady, Elena, a very nice lady, who had a problem. The building housing her apartment and the next one had no electricity. We still unpacked and went to explore our neighbourhood, Monti. Like the Empire State Building in NYC and the Eiffel Tower in Paris, the Coliseum is very close to us, and like the other two,  expect we will see it every day.  In a month, we will be in great shape!  The apartment is on a hill, everywhere else is downhill and seems 3 time a day we are climbing up many, many steps to get home.  Just like in LA where we had to walk uphill to get to Sunset Strip. We had our 1st pizza in Rome at the Bar Pizzeria Koski and explored a little. On return, we discovered the electrical problem had not been solved and Elena had decided to put us up in a hotel for the night. She drove us to the hotel, a 4 ½ star, where we were both making an effort not to sleep. We had dinner at Naumachia where Monique had Caprese Salad and Carpaccio while I had the Caprese and Risotto followed by Tiramisu, espresso and Limoncello (Bill) to finish. The Tiramisu was delicious but they sell a lot of it and it appears they produce it by the vat. Overall it was very good food, at a good price. Back to the hotel, a Sambuca (for Monique), and a much need sleep.
Day 2
Slept very late and both woke up rested, ready to go. We took advantage of the hotel stay, to have a great breakfast. We learned from Elena that the electrical problem had been solved so headed back to the apartment. First item on the agenda was stock the apartment with food essentials and to shop to solve OUR electrical problem. We now seem to be travelling with 8 items that need to be charged. Once that was finished, we decided to take the jump on, jump off tour tourist bus and take the entire tour to get a perspective of the city. Monique said it had the effect to make us feel like we are on vacation. Afterwards, we had an afternoon panino (sandwich) and a glass of wine at the Caffe – Dello Studente. Nice to sit outside and enjoy a nice afternoon, especially when we heard it was snowing in Ottawa again.
Right next to the apartment is the Basilica di San Pietro in Vincoli (St Peter in Chains) which is a beautiful church but also contains a sculptor of Moses by Michelanglo and we paid a visit on the way home. Then back to the apartment to catch-up with blogging.
For dinner we went to Cuoco Camicia, a small restaurant, near to us and recommended by our landlady. As it turns out, it is also a VERY GOOD restaurant. We went with the  6 course tasting menu which included a fish carpaccio with diced strawberries and asparagus, passion fruit compote and a corn crumble;  grilled calamari with cucumber sorbet, tomatoes and a balsamic reduction; Tortellini stuffed with carbonara sauce, zucchini and a bacon crumble; Tortelloni stuffed with butter from Normandy, asparagus, flowers and dried beets dust; grilled duck breast and asparagus with a raspberry coulis; and finished off with dark beer ice cream, in a white chocolate foam served in beer mug and an assortment of sweets.  Fabulous food – we will certainly return.
Day 3
Started early with a 3 hour tour of the Coliseum, the Roman Forum and the Palatine Hill. It did not start well as apparently there are 2 entrances to the metro and not one… so had trouble meeting our guide. Finally worked it out and got going. Ivana was a great tour guide and gave us an interesting perspective. The Coliseum was less spectacular, only because it has become part of the neighbourhood. However, Ivana, who was from Sicily originally and studied archeology, gave an excellent explanation of how it operated as opposed to the Hollywood version (no Russell Crowes). The Forum, downtown ancient Rome, was interesting. We saw where Caesar’s ashes were buried and Mark Anthony made his famous speech.  But we probably enjoyed Palatine Hill more when we saw where the Emperor sat: Seat of world power for almost 500 years, and the fabulous view of Circus Maximus (Chariot Races).  When the tour ended, we did a little more exploring and had a late lunch: pizza and risotto with the obligatory ½ litre of wine. A little shopping and then some rest. Dinner was at Osteria Della Suburra Da Silvio: Meatballs in tomato sauce and antipasta plate to start and then Spaghetti Carbonara (Bill) and Penne Arrabiata (Monique). We had decided that we were drinking far too much wine, so had decided no bottle tonight, just a ½ litre. Monique, worried whether we would have enough, ordered ¾ of a litre and I had to point out to her, we were once again drinking a bottle. To be fair we did leave a little in the bottom. A long walk up the stairs to end the evening.
Day 4
Started by discovering a place close by where we can buy cappuccino take out in large size to meet both our needs. The small espresso machine in the apartment makes us only 2 small cups. Toast made from fresh bread with cheese and peanut butter (brought from home) for breakfast. Then it was time to do some walking although started with the metro to Piazza del Popolo. Three large churches, two massive fountains and the Heliopolis obelisk, which dates back to the 13 century B.C. and had been moved there from Circus Maximus around 500 A.D. Then down high end shopping streets to Piazza de Spagna and the Spanish Steps (under renovation) but managed to walk up the side to the Church of the Trinita dei Monti and Villa Medici. Then down more shopping streets to the Fountain of Trevi famous, of course, for the movie, Three Coins in the Fountain and even more so for Anita Ekberg cavorting in it, in La Dolce Vita. It also seems that the rest of the world had decided to visit it at the same time but Monique did manage to throw a coin in!  Then through Piazza Pieta and down to the huge Victor Emmanuel Monument and the Piazza Venezia. From there a short walk home. For dinner, a small bistrot, Barzilai, simple delicious food at a reasonable price. A pear and cheese salad and a ricotta and honey salad to start and eggplant parmigiana and fresh butter pasta for the main course. Once again, the long walk up those stairs.
Day 5
We are still recovering from jet lag, had something in the evening and started really late so explored the area of Esquilino near to us. We started with the Domus Aurea, a large landscaped portico villa built by the Emperor Nero in the heart of ancient Rome, after the great fire in A.D. 64 had cleared away the aristocratic dwellings on the slopes of the Palatine Hill; then, the Gardino Nicola Calipari; and finishing with the Basilica Di Santa Prassede. Late lunch was at the Pizza Rustica – emphasis on “Rustica  We passed on the Basilica di Santa Maria Maggiore for lack of time. However it is close by and we will start with it one morning. The good news was that Monique found a place to buy flowers for the apartment. In the evening, we went to the Salone Margherita to see a performance of the Barber of Seville. It is probably geared towards tourists, not unlike the Folies Bergères in Paris, but did not have the same production line mentality. We had a private loge for our dinner and then the show. A relatively small theatre, so it’s not the Met, but the production was well done, the singers were great and we really enjoyed the show. It is also much cheaper than the 800 euros that two tickets to LaScala in Milan, would have cost us. As it turns out, they close the Metro early, so only got half way home and had to take a taxi the rest of the way. We came back to a locked outer door. The electrical problem had been solved.
Day 6
Started in the area of Trevi and ended up in Navona, along the way exploring many side streets and visiting the attractions. Started with the Palazzo Barberini. An Italian noble family that rose to prominence in the 17th century and had one of their members elected Pope. They built the Palazzo using material taken from the Coliseum and other antiquities causing Romans to say that the family did more damage to roman history than the barbarians did when they sacked the city. Following that was the Quirinale Palace, current residence of the President of Italy and former residence of Popes. Following that, was a journey through many side streets, and afternoon snack and glass of wine at Le Lanterne. The waiter only slightly grimaced when Bill took his rosée on ice. Then on to the Pantheon, through the Piazza di Pietra. All the people in the world who had been at the Fountain of Trevi, two days ago had obviously decided to move to the Pantheon today.  Still a magnificent structure!!! After that, a visit to two churches and then the Piazza della Rotonda.  Finally, through more side streets, to the Piazza Navona. As we were there, we decided to be very un-Italian and eat early about 7:30pm. Of the many choices, started with Tre Scalini but ended up with a rude waiter so moved next door to the Caffè Nettuno. We shared Caprese Salad and Risotto to start which followed by Osso Buco and Roast Lamb for the main course. Dessert was panna cotta and lemon sorbert with limoncello.  Food and service were excellent except for main courses, which, while tasty, were overcooked. They did not rush us at all and we figured it was the NYC trick to show people they had customers. Then the chilly walk home, past another Roman Forum, on the other side of road from the original, this one nicely lit.
Day 7
Today was supposed to be ‘’church’’ day. We had planned to visit 3 of the major basilicas. However we started with Basilica di Santa Maria Maggiore – explored this very beautiful church and then decided to take a tour of the parts closed to the public. At the end of the tour, we discovered that the Pope would be arriving at 5:00pm. As it was only an hour away, we decided to stay and see… and yes the Pope did arrive actually just in front of where we were standing. Once in a life time experience but as Monique says twice as she had seen the Pope on her first visit to Rome some 45 years ago.  After, we left the church and headed for the Basilica Di Giovanni in Laterano, stopping for a piece of pizza along the way. Another fantastic building but couldn’t quite see as much as we would have liked because there was a mass going on. By the time we left, there was no time for the 3rd one and, for the 1st time, decided to eat at home.
Day 8
Breakfast at home and then went across the street to visit a local Sunday market. Mostly local designers, jewellery, clothes, vintage stuff.  Then on to the metro, where we had an adventure. Getting on to a very crowded train, I caught a 12 year old boy trying to pull my wallet out of his pocket. He was with a friend, and perhaps an older handler. I threatened him with the police, he did recognize the word police. It ended OK, Monique and I moved away and they got off at the next stop. We had decided to spend some time walking along the Tiber, so got off near the river and started off down towards the centre of town, we started on one side and then at the next bridge would switch to the other. On the Vatican side made a detour to visit the Piazza of Cavour. We could also tell that we were getting close to St. Peter’s as all of the sudden we were into crowds. Stopped for a panni and a coke and the continued through side streets to Piazza Farnese and Campo de Fiori which is a large outdoor food market 6 days a week and is a flea market type of market on Sundays. We stopped there to explore and then for a late afternoon glass of wine at Baullari, a lovely place where we hope to return for dinner. After that, we worked our way home stopping on that way at the Basilica Andrea Della Valle for look. As it turns out there was a concert about to start so stayed to listen for a while. For supper, we had picked a particular restaurant, but when we got there found out it was permanently closed so headed towards our 2nd choice, Angelino “ai Foriâ€. A shared caprese, what else is new, and Veal Piccata for Monique and Risotto for Bill. Dessert was Tiramisu and Sorbete with limoncello.
Day 9
Not a very busy day. It was an early morning for Bill who had his ½ day cooking class. While it was somewhat basic in nature, it was fun. He got back to the apartment about 2:00. Monique went out for a few Americani, did some shopping and found a Laundromat. Because Bill had a 4 course lunch, he had no desire to go for supper, so Monique went to Elite, our own little Whole Food down the usual staircase and came back with a picnic dinner…
Day 10
After a quiet day…back to busy. We were up early for our tour of the Vatican Museum, including the Sistine Chapel and St. Peter’s Basilica. The tour took 3 hours and was quite good. Monique and I had seen both before but 40 years ago and before the restoration of the Sistine. However, one forgets how spectacular they are. After St. Peter’s, we went for lunch and since it was already about 1:30pm and the restaurant had a really good menu, decided to take a different strategy and have a big meal early afternoon and lighter at evening. We shared a mixed bruschetta plate, Monique had the fettuccine boscaiola and Bill had the lamb chops both having a few glasses of wine. After lunch, we explored a little of Prati and had our first street gelato at a recommended place. Had to wait for 10 minutes… an “exploit†for Bill. Then, a cappuccino and an americano, and home on the Metro, crowded but no pickpockets! Pizza takeout for dinner!!!!
Day 11
Decided to do an outdoor activity today. We started by seeing Rome’s pyramid, which was built about 18 BC–12 BC as a tomb for Gaius Cestius, a magistrate and member of one of the four great religious corporations and at the same place the Porta San Paolo, a major gate into Rome. After that, climbed the back of Aventine Hill, where the view of Rome from the top is stunning.  There is also a Dominican Church and the famous view through the keyhole (the keyhole in a large gate in a wall along part of the top of the hill where looking through, you can see the dome of St. Peter’s). It was difficult to get a look because of the line of people and most trying to take a picture through it with their cell phones, one lady with her tablet. However we did get a look. (The picture included comes from the internet, not our cameras). After enjoying the view for a while, headed down the front side of hill and crossed the Tiber for our first sojourn into Trastevere. It was nice narrow streets and old buildings and makes it very inviting (we almost rented an apartment there). However, it is also filled with tourists! We stopped for a late afternoon snack (Caprese salad) at Vincenzo allo Lungaretta, explored the neighbourhood and then visited the Basilica Santa Maria in Trastevere, a beautiful church. Had a happy hour glass of wine in a very popular piazza, explored a little more and stopped for dinner at the “Take Your Timeâ€. As we had seen one or two others, we think it is some type franchise operation.  We would also not be surprised, considering the size of the food preparation area, if the food is not at least half prepared off site.  Having said that, Monique’s beef carpaccio was the best she had tasted since we arrived in Rome. Bill’s meatballs in a lemon sauce with rice and Monique’s cannelloni were very good as was the dessert – Mozart, a chocolate bomb. The service was excellent. All at a very reasonable price. We decided to walk home and enjoyed the view of the lighted Coliseum as we passed – it was spectacular.
Monique had a epiphany today! Sitting in the Vincenzo allo Lungaretta, having her Caprese Salad and drinking a glass of wine (the picture with the checkered tablecloth), she realized that this was her life from now on. There would be no returning to work when the vacation was over. She was moving on!!!!!
Day 12
An early morning! We had tickets for the Borghese Gallery at 9am. They only let you in for 2 hours and you have an entry time. Quite a gallery, the sculptures were amazing, the paintings, with one or two exceptions, less so. After our two hours were up, we explored the Gallery’s gardens and the larger park Mount Pincio.  Afterwards, we started down Via Veneto with its upscale hotels and stores. Stopped once for a capuccino and pastry and then at the end, on Piazza Barbarini decided on late lunch/dinner. The restaurant was Cioa Bella Grille, an enclosed dining area on the street. We shared a calamari and then penne arrabbitia and seafood risotto with a ½ bottle of wine and limoncella on the house. Afterwards we headed for home, did some shopping and Monique went to the hair salon and Bill went home to nap. Sandwiches for dinner and watching N. American TV on our tablets.
Day 13
Monique’s 60th Birthday!!! To celebrate we did something that we have not done in four years of this type of vacation. We made breakfast!! Bacon and eggs with toast and peanut butter. A treat!!! After taking the morning off, we set out to visit the church we had missed previously – the Basilica di San Clemente al Laterano. This ancient church was transformed over the centuries from a private home that was the site of clandestine Christian worship in the 1st century to a grand public basilica by the 6th century.  You can go beneath the church and see archeological finds from different times in its history. After the church, Monique got her birthday flowers and we stopped for a cappuccino and Procecco.
Then Monique’s birthday dinner! We have developed the tradition when we are in these cities to pick a special restaurant for Monique’s birthday. Bill had been given a list of restaurants to choose from but the birthday came quicker than anticipated and they were all fully booked. Thanks to Trip Advisor he found Viva Voce, in a hotel near St. Peters – Villa Agrippina. The setting was perfect, beautiful tables and quiet. The service was excellent and the food fabulous and expensive. However Bill, lucked out, it did match Delmonicos (NYC); Train Bleu in the Gare de Lyon (Paris) and Boa (LA). We started with a few glasses of Italian Champagne and good rum and amazing amuse-bouches, appetizers of deep fried oysters and seared duck breast, mains of Beef filet in bread crust and Mediterranean herbs flavored lamb, and finishing with sorbet with vodka, Neapolitan traditional babà with Moscato sweet wine and a complementary candle lite dessert - Strawberries and banana cream millefeuille with mint sauce. Dinner was accompanied by a bottle of wine recommended by the Maître d’. As at Boa’s last year, if we were teetotallers, the bill would have been reasonable but we are not so it was the same as last year! Overall it was a wonderful evening and Monique said it was the perfect place to celebrate her birthday!!
Day 14
We are ½ through!!!!! A cold and rainy day so took a “planning dayâ€. We are a good way through our “to do†list so after some discussion decided on two nights in Florence.  We will go at the beginning of our last week. Train tickets (business class of course) and hotel are booked. We also have a list of things we have to do and things maybe we will do before we leave. We had trouble finding a place to eat, being Saturday night, so ended up in a in a large restaurant, somewhat like the Colonnade. Service was mediocre, they forgot our caprese salad – no apologies… but the house wine was not bad and the pasta surprisingly very good. Despite it being chilly, we stopped for an excellent gelato on the way home at Glateria dell’Angeletto.
Day 15
One of the objectives of the day was to locate the Pensione Cina, or the location, where I had stayed at 44 years ago and that my sister Jacquie had stayed a few years later. We did find the location; the building is now a Best Western Hotel. Along the way we explored part of the San Lorenzo District. At the Porta Pia, we found a small military museum dedicated to the Bersaglieri Regiments of the Italian Army. The most famous action of the Bersaglieri occurred on 20 September 1870, when the 12th Bersaglieri battalion stormed Rome near Porta Pia thus completing the unification of Italy. After, we headed towards the Piazza della Repubblica but stopped to explore the Chiesa di Santa Maria della Vittoria, a beautiful church known for the masterpiece of Bernini, the Ecstasy of Saint Teresa. Then Repubblica which was the site of the mammoth Roman bathhouse built by the Emperor Diocletian which could hold 8000 people at a time and covered 32 acres. Today the remains are incorporated in the huge Basilica Santa Maria degli Angeli e dei Martiri, designed by Michelangelo, another church, an old planetarium, the National Roman Museum.   The scale is so impressive!! We spent some time in the church and even more in the Museum. The Museum gave a wonderful feeling of what life must have been like in Roman times. On the way home,  we stopped at the Alessio Ristorante for dinner. Fabulous food with great service. As normal, a shared Caprese and then risotto with main course of veal scaloppini (Monique) and lamb special (Bill). A shared special tiramisu for dessert and limoncello on the casa. Day ended with a walk home in the rain, we had our umbrellas.
A side story… A British couple, we think,  entered the restaurant just before us and were seated at a table of four which the waiter then separated to make 2 tables, about 6 inches apart. When they saw this, they left. Monique’s and Bill’s comments on this, was they had obviously not been to NYC where the table are 2 inches apart. The blog for today is longer than usual because neither one of us is, at the moment, interested in venturing out into the windy cold.
Day 16
A windy chilly day so it was hard to get moving. Because of the weather we returned to the Capitoline Museum in Piazza del Campidoglio, on top of the Capitoline Hill. The Piazza was designed by Michelangelo and the museum has a large number of ancient Roman statues, inscriptions, and other artifacts; a collection of medieval and Renaissance art; and collections of jewels, coins, and other items.  It was an interesting day. Afterward walked around the corner, to look at a building we had seen a number of times before, but thanks again to our knowledgeable taxi driver from the other night, had learned that it was the HQ of the Fascist party under Mussolini and has the balcony where he gave many of his speeches. After, sat along the Via dei Fori Imperiali, watching people walk by. Finally headed to restaurant where we had reservations for dinner. La Taverna dei Fori Imperiali. We had actually tried to go last week but had not been able to get in. It was well worth the wait. Great food and very friendly service. Monique had a conversation with the owner’s son, of what it was like to grow up with parents that owned restaurants. A shared stuffed artichoke followed by a shared pasta – Cacio e Pepe, and Sea Bass (Bill) and Pork Shank (Monique) and two great desserts. This is all at a reasonable price. One thing we learned is that Italians consider fish without bones not to be fresh, the fish has to be filleted just before being cooked. Most restaurants in Rome provide a digestive at the end of a meal. In most restaurants that deal with tourists it’s limoncella. Tonight it was Passito, a Sicilian dessert wine, not unlike a Canadian ice wine. We had 3 each and bought a small bottle on the way home!!!
Day 17
Cold and raining, so an administration day. Did the laundry, watched some TV, did some shopping, (Monique got a “Sunday dinner†table cloth), returned to Koski for pizza, stopped at Ciuri Ciuri, a pasticcera,  for a few cannoli, and made dinner at home. Our land lady had provided us with the fixings to make a pasta dinner on our arrival that we had never used. Rather than venture out into the rain, we made it today.
Day 18
Again, not a great day weather wise, but we cannot sit around anymore. We decided to go through the part of San Lorenzo we had not seen before. After exploring the neighbourhood, we ended up at the Bascilia San Lorenzo fuori le Mura (or “St. Lawrence outside the Walls).  When we arrived there, we found it closed but a friendly flower seller – the church has a large cemetery, so there are lots of them – told us it doesn’t open until 4pm. Rather than wait, we decided to make the trek to see the Villa Torlonia, situated in the Park Torlonia and return to the church after… After a long walk that began well by starting down the wrong street, we arrived at the park, walked all the way around it and found a closed entrance. Discouraged, we headed back to Via Margarita to have a glass of wine and re-assess!!! It was a long way back to the church so decided to learn how the tram system works. Thanks to our waiter, we got good instructions and made it back to the church. A beautiful church with more of the original building remaining than most churches, found within the walls. It has a lot of history.   We continued using the tram system, jumping off one time at the Porta Maggiore that was built during the construction of one of Rome’s aqueducts in the first century AD. In the third century, a gate was built becoming part of the city walls. After that, back on the tram, which with one mishap, got us close to where we wanted to go.   We stopped at L’Esquilino Ristorante-Bar for dinner. It was only 7:00pm so had no problem getting a table – 30 minutes later it was packed.  It has the air of a tourist restaurant which I suppose it is. The menus are plasticized placemats in both Italian and English.  But when looking at value for money, this is a good place to eat in Rome. The appetizer plate for two, recommended by the waiter, was excellent and so large we passed on the pasta course. The 2 main courses the calamari (Bill) and the veal a le limone (Monique) were great.  The service was 1st rate! The Italian music (or what North Americans consider Italian music) was a nice touch.  Finally, back at home, a close examination of our map showed it had two “Park Torlonia†on it and we had been at the wrong one.
Day 19
Terrible day weather wise. Cold and rainy!!! Got packed-up to go out and then changed our mind. We waited for the landlord to arrive and fix something; and then decided to stay in the neighbourhood and revisit the church next door to better understand its history and get better pictures of the Michelangelo. We had dinner with Alison Jamieson, an old friend (and colleague) of Monique, Rick and Carol (Monique and I had worked with Rick at CIDA) and Al and Sheila. The 5 are doing a trip to Italy together. For the group, Monique had made reservations to return to La Taverna dei Fori Imperiali – great food, wonderful service at a reasonable price. Monique, Alison and I shared the caprese and deep fried artichoke to start and then fettuccini carbonara. For the main course Monique had the veal pocket with gorgonzola cheese, while I had the veal chop in a mushroom sauce. Both were excellent, as was the shared dessert, panna cotta and tiramisu. During conversation at dinner and with a few calculations, it was determined that Monique and I will drink between 2 ½ to 3 cases of wine during this trip!!!! We stopped for a sambuca and limoncella on the way home, in order to face the stairs!!
Day 20
The sun is out, not quite shorts weather, but warmer. By the end of day we realized, like when we were in NYC that we are maybe lucky with the weather – not sure we would want to be slogging around Rome at 30+ degrees. Started off through the back of the Augusta/Trajan forums to the Church of del Santissimo Nome di Maria. Afterward, around the Victor Emmanuel Monument and towards the Campo de Fiori market. Despite the fact we had seen it before, it had been on the weekend, and not really fully functional. It is a little like the Byward Market in Ottawa but seems expensive by Roman standards. After to the Palazzo and Galery Spada, stopping on the way to look at Santissima Trinita dei Pellegrini (another church). The museum/gallery is based in an old villa built about 500 years ago in the Piazza Capo di Ferro and is mostly art work of the 16th and 17th centuries. After the gallery spend some time exploring the narrow streets of the Jewish Ghetto. For lunch, stumbled upon a quite fancy restaurant,Pernino, almost in a back lane where rich Italians arrive and leave by taxi. Another flashback from La Dolce Vita. On the way home stopped at the Basilica of Santa Maria in Cosmedin, which encloses Hadrian’s crypt. Also famous for the La Bocca della Verità (the Mouth of Truth) which legend says if you tell a lie with your hand in its mouth, your hand will be bitten off. We stood in line 15 minutes for Monique to try it, I didn’t dare! We walked home along the Tiber and then through the Circus Maximus. A light supper, at a tourist restaurant, La Biga Wine Food Ristorante, looking at the Coliseum. Pretty good food at a very reasonable price, but expensive wine – the obligatory Caprese, spaghetti and risotto. Dessert came out of the same container we see at Luciano Foods on Preston !!!
Day 21
Another nice day, and because we were not going to Pompeii we did the next best thing, we spend the day at Ostia Antica. It entailed the metro and a short train ride. Ostia Antica is a large archeological site, close to the modern suburb of Ostia and was the location of the harbour city of ancient Rome, at the mouth of the Tiber. The site is noted for the excellent preservation of its ancient buildings, magnificent frescoes and impressive mosaics. At the end of the day we had a very late lunch/early dinner at Allo Sbarco Di Enea, just outside the site. Lasagne for Bill and Pizza for Monique.
Day 22
Headed off the see the Appian Way. The Appian Way (Via Appia) or “Queen of the Roads†was one of the earliest and strategically most important Roman roads of the ancient Roman Republic. It connected Rome to Brindisi, in southeast Italy. We had saved it for a Sunday because a number of guides said they closed traffic on Sundays but it was not the case, so maybe just a small part of it, or just during summer.  There, we also visited the Catacombs (underground buriel chambers) of Callixtus, one of the Catacombs of Rome, found on the Appian Way, and most notable for which once containing the tombs of several popes. We took the French tour, not the English one, because of the size of the groups.  They were interesting but a little spooky. After that explored more of Via Appia and visited a small museum that contained relics from the catacombs. After that, a combination of bus/metro took us to Ostiense and the Basilica Papale di San Paolo fuori le Mura which is one of Romes four ancient, major basilicas. Supposedly it is built on the buriel place of the disciple Paul. One of the nicest we have seen. We then walked a little through Ostiense and then took the metro home. Had a delightful dinner at  Pasqualino al Collosseo. However we made the mistake of taking two appetizers before splitting the 2nd course gnocchi,  because the main courses, roast lamb and mixed grill, were huge. That was finished off by the tiramisu. We must also have decided to try for 3 cases because we had a bottle and ½ of wine with dinner. Then home to get ready for Florence where Bill had a little Passito. Today, we also completed our must do list. Although we have a few things we would still like to see, the important things are done.
Day 23
Up early and taking the Metro to Termini (Train Station) to get the Rapido (fast train) to Florence. A very comfortable ride. Arrived in Florence to pouring rain but using our umbrella’s walked to the hotel getting lost a couple of times along the way. Once settled in, had lunch at Eataly, where we shared a salad and a pizza. We had eaten at the Eataly in NYC, and always thought it was a NYC institution but it was actually started in Torino. After lunch, a tour of the Duomo, which while being so beautiful on the outside, considering what we saw in Rome, quite plain on the inside. Then, shopping for leather but the only thing purchased is a wallet for Bill. A walk through Florence, including across the Vecchio Bridge, an afternoon glass of wine, outside the Pitti Palace, and them back to the hotel. We had a wonderful dinner at the Botteghe di Donatello. Started with carpaccio for Monique and risotto for Bill while both had veal scallopini for the main course. Dessert was a Tartuffo with brandy. A short walk home looking at the lighted Duomo.
Day 24
This vacation is getting tough, for the 2nd morning we have to get moving early, as we have reservations at the Uffizi Gallery. As it turns out the hotel has a wonderful breakfast so we started out right. We got into the Gallery without much problem, and spent the morning there. There are lots of works of art but you sometimes have to fight your way through people to see them properly. As it turns out, we have been quite adept at this. Just look at my great picture of the Leonardo!!!  Most impressive was the Tribuna of the Uffizi, an octagonal gallery, designed by Bernardo Buontalenti, for Cosimo I de’Medici in 1584. The most important antiquities, High Renaissance and Bolognese paintings from the Medici collection still displayed there. After the gallery, a little shopping, Monique bought a scarf, pizza for lunch at the Uffizi Pizzaria Ristorante, and then a leisurely afternoon strolling thought the gardens of the Pitti Palace.  This included a porcelain display and a display of gowns by fashion designers in the 20th century.  The walk home included passing through the Piazza della Repubblica. A late afternoon drink at the hotel and then a small rest before heading to Il Caminetto for dinner. This was another really great find. Boy not only was the food delicious but it was different then our usual fare – deep fried cheese with pear for a starter, risotto for the 2nd ( yes, the risotto is the same but much different presentation and much different taste), and Ris de Veau (Monique) and Florentine Steak for Bill. As it turns out, Florence is famous for its steak and it is always a T-Bone served rare. The difference is apparently that it comes from Tuscan cows. In any event, it was excellent. Dessert was a Milles-Feuilles. Once again, a walk home enjoying a small gelato looking at the lighted Duomo.
Day 25
Not so early today as our time to get into the Galleria dell’Academia was 10:15 so we took time to enjoy the breakfast. Once again it was quite easy to get into the gallery with our pre-paid tickets, the longest wait is always the security screening. You will notice in the 1st picture it is Bill dealing with the ticket lady and that is because it was the same lady from the day before and she had found Monique too “anxious†so had ignored her and let other people go before. Both of us had seen the David before but you forget how spectacular it is. They also have quite a good collection of 14th, early 15th century art (High Gothic). Still had 3 things to do but were running out of time so chose Piazza Santa Crose and the Basilica. After the Basilica, a walk back to the hotel, stopping to have Caprese, Pizza and a few glasses of vino (what else) at the Francesco on the way there. After some last minute shopping, picked up our suitcases and a short walk to the station to catch the Rapido! Uneventful trip home to Rome, outside a taxi driver, who was very mad because we were not going far from the station – just like anywhere in the world! Had dinner at home!
Day 26
We are both running out of steam however didn’t want to end up sitting around so decided to try and find Villa Torlonia one more time, but this time we were successful. Villa Torlonia is a large villa built at the end of the 17th century with large grounds that have been turned into a park. The villa has gone through a number of owners and many changes. It was also the home of Mussolini for about 20 years. Interesting building! On the way home stopped at Piazza Margherita for a drink, as far as we can calculate this is the Upper West (East) Side of Rome or the 18th Arrondissement in Paris – expensive looking apartments and rich looking people. We got caught in the rain heading for home because the ADM in charge of planning had decided that umbrellas would not be necessary that day. Had to buy an umbrella leaving the Metro. We are at the end of the trip, so decided that the time for trying new restaurants has passed so returned to the Pasqualino al Collosseo. Shared caprese, bombolotti alla gricia (pasta in butter and bacon – to die for but about a million calories), the mixed grill, emphasize on the sausage and beef fillet. Great food !
Day 27
Shopping day but managed to visit two churches. Returned to the La Taverna dei Fori Imperiali for our last dinner. Such wonderful service and great food. Two appetizers, the deeped fried artichoke for Monique and the bruschetta with pork for Bill. Monique said the pork tasted just like her mother’s. A shared pasta for the 2nd course and lamb shops in bacon and pork fillet with plums. Chocolate lava cake and lemon ice cream with vodka for dessert. A great last night in Rome despite the usual walk up the stairs to end the evening.
