News from Paris
General
1. Paris is indeed, the City of Light!
2. We live in a wonderful neighborhood. The bakery for picking-up our morning baguette is 30 sec away and at night it turns into restaurants central.
3. The weather has been perfect for walking, slightly cool in morning, slightly warm in afternoon,
3. For 2 people who have been avoiding deep fried foods for the last couple of years, Paris is a disaster. Everything comes with “frites”. One morning I expect that my café au lait and croissant will come with frites!
4. The world is a small place. Ran into our next door neighbours on the street outside Invalides.
5. Paris is very expensive!!!!!!!!!! Even the wine!!! We are paying the same amount for a bottle of wine that we pay in Ottawa. If we want cheap wine we go to an Italian restaurant for Italian wine.
6. We have consumed more butter in this trip then we have in the last 2 years. (and they don’t serve butter with the bread).
7. We noticed the other night that in almost all the restaurants we eat in would never be opened in Ottawa because they would never meet the various fire and health codes. Add to that it is impossible to sit outside without being next to a smoker. Have become more appreciative of the smoking laws in Canada.
8. We went to L’Orangerie today, next to the Musee D’Orsay, a top museum for Impressionists paintings. Monet’s Water Lilies are there as well as a great Renoir collection plus others. There was a huge line to buy tickets, between 1 to 2 hrs waiting. It took us 5 minutes, with tickets we had bought in advance, to get in. The line was there, despite the fact that anytime you look up Paris museums on the internet, there is always warning – Buy Your Tickets In Advance as well as advice of where to get them. One has to wonder sometimes!!!!!!!!!
Editors Note: For some reason Flickr was arranging the pictures in reverse order so started at the end of the day rather than the beginning. As of today (April 24) this has been corrected
Diary
Day 1
Arrive early in morning tired and cranky. Remember how much I used to hate overnight flights. Apartment is small, as expected, but comfortable. Neighborhood is great! Explored a little, found the supermarket and then a late lunch at the Café du Coin, “quiche” with chicken and ham on a baguette. Then a 3 hr nap (did marvel for the crankiness…) and more exploration. Got a chip for Bill’s cell phone and an apéro at a side walk café at Place St-Michel, Finally a late dinner at the Relais Entrecôte, their specialty -Surprise! all you can eat steak and frites.
Day 2
Late breakfast at Café de Paris (croissants, baguette and café au lait). Then exploration of Saint-Germain des Prés. Got the métro passes for the month, visited a couple of 1000 year old churches, a walk along the left bank, baguette sandwiches for lunch, a visit to Au Bon Marché (the Harrods of Paris) to buy tickets for the museums (we had seen the 3 hr line earlier in the day for the Musée d’Orsay) and cheese for breakfast the next day. That evening a concert with classical pianist Yuja Wang who we had seen in New York and violinist Leonidas Kavakos. Excellent. A late dinner at Le Bistro Saint-Germain across the street (carnard confit\duck leg).
DAY 3
The jet lag caught up with us. Monique slept to 10:30, we had breakfast, baguette and cheese and then I fell asleep on the couch for an hr. When we finally got going walk through the Latin Quarter and then across the river to Place de la Bastille and then along St-Antoine. Returning to the Left Bank passed close to Notre Dame so visited the Cathedral. Was as spectacular as I remembered. Dinner at Café des Arts (Leg of Lamb and Beef Bourgignon)
Day 4
Another late start!!! Croissants and coffee for breakfast and then a few hours exploring the rest of ÃŽle de la Cité and ÃŽle Saint-Louis with a short visit across the river to see Place du Châtelet. A late lunch (Croque-monsieur and Croque-madame) at L’Institut restaurant. Realized we had missed La Petite Chapelle so returned to La Cité. Finally a leisurely walk along the Seine before to return home for a nap. (Too much wine at lunch). Dinner at Little Breizh for wonderful Crêpes and Cider. One note – the first really warm day and all of the sudden the streets and restaurants are filled with people.
Day #5
A day to finish the 5th. (Paris is divided into neighborhoods call Arrondissements numbered 1 to 20). Saint-Sulpice, a large and beautiful church – free organ concert – best in Paris, the Museum of Luxembourg (a exhibition on the Impératrice Josephine), the Gardens of Luxembourg, the Pantheon, and the area of the Sorbonne. In the evening, a review called ‘How to be a Parisian in One Hour’ and then dinner in Montmartre at the Coinstot Vino, fish and the famous steak tartare.
Day 6
The Gardens of Tuileries and then a leisurely walk along the Champs ÉLysées finishing at the Arc de Triomphe. A bit the 16th, mostly residential and offices with a very late lunch in a small Greek family restaurant. Then across the river to the Eiffel Tour. After the late lunch, dinner was a caprese salad, pizza and a bottle of wine at the Ristorante Pepone, just down the street. Excellent!!!! Then what more to ask for … a street jazz trio plus singer) (no-one under 70).
Day 7
Sunday, the day of rest. Left for the Marché aux Puces (Flea market) around 11:00 and wandered around for 3 hrs. It was huge and suspect we saw about 25% of it. Outside of all the antiques and the size of, it was about the same as others we have seen around the world. Dinner at La Jacobine (Pork filet in a Mustard Sauce, Coq au Vin). Excellent!
Day 8
A day in Le Marais. Le Marais is a historic district in Paris. Long the aristocratic district of Paris, it hosts many outstanding buildings of historic and architectural importance (Places des Vosges, Hotel Sully, Archives nationales). Today has become a fashionable district, home to many trendy restaurants, fashion houses, and hip galleries. Lunch at Chez Camille – Steak\Duck and Frites and then later in the evening pasta at Del Papa.
Day 9
Arrival of Melissa, our roommate from New York who is on her way to Vienna. Spent most of the day in the 7th, including Les Invalides, the military museum (different perspective on WW I and WW II) and the tomb of Napoleon. Moulin Rouge in the evening, a good show, not bad food (Monique liked the Champagne) but different views on value for money. Bill’s view being how can you go to the Moulin Rouge and see no more that 5 min. of Parisien bistro entertainment including the Can-Can.
Day 10
Exploring the 9th, with Melissa, and including, area of Barbès and Rue du Delta where Monique visited her sister many years ago, the Barbès market, Place de Stalingrad, Place du Colonel Fabian, lunch at La Fontaine, ham on baguette and salad (and of course frites), Canal Saint -Martin, and Place de la République. A before dinner drink at Le Buci, dinner at Le Relais (raclette and cheese fondue) followed by cheesecake and expresso at a small bakery The Smiths.
Day 11
Melissa left early this morning and we went back to sleep. Had a very late start with omelets at the Cafe Le Conti and then off to the 20th and our tour of Père Lachaise. Père Lachaise is a cemetery where many famous Parisiens have been buried. Among others we visited Edith Piaf, Oscar Wilde, Molière, Lafontaine, Nadar (the photographer), Gertrude Stein, Isadora Duncan, Abelard and Eloise and of course the two most visited sites – Jim Morrison (the Doors) and Chopin. We also missed a lot! A drink at Rond Point in the 20th and then later dinner at Rachelle and Jean Pierre’s favourite restaurant L’Écurie. One of the best and maybe the cheapest meals we have had in Paris and Madame Mimi, the owner also offered us a petit calvados.
Day 12
An easy day. Rain was forecast so we went to the Musée D’Orsay. An impressive collection of the Impressionists, Renoir was Bill’s favourite as well as a lot of sculpture including Rodin. There was also a nice exhibition of Toulouse-Lautrec. There were 2 special exhibitions 1) Van Gogh and 2) Gustave Doré (in conjunction with the CDN National Art Gallery). As we left the museum we were hungry so ended up in a tourist trap, mediocre food at a high price. Had better luck with dinner! As we walked out, we realized it was freezing cold so ducked into the Italian restaurant that is next door – Quattordici. Superb food, better service and a great price.
Some Photos from Day 12
Day 13
Started with an exhibition on the Orient Express, very interesting. After a quick café au lait, we returned to Le Marais to visit the Victor Hugo Museum which had been closed when we there on Monday. Had lunch nearby at the B.D.G Café. Lamb and Veal Liver, and to our immense pleasure with excellent mashed potatoes! no frites!! So so good!!! As we got home, was getting colder and beginning to rain, so bought a BBQ chicken and salad at the supermarket for dinner and will stay in for the rest of the day.
Day 14
Easter Sunday so a day to relax. Had a Brunch at “Paul” (quiche and an omelet) and then the afternoon along Boulevard de Port Royal and Boulevard Montparnasse. A great crèpe at Crèperie Port-Manech (Salted caramel and butter) then home. With the late brunch and the crèpe, it will be leftovers from last night for dinner.
Day 15
A long day!!!!! Started at a decent time for us! Les Halles, Fontaine des Innocents, Grand Boulevards, stopped for a frite, Boulevard Montmartre, Les Grands Magazins (Galeries Lafayette et au Printemps), Gare Saint- Lazare, Opéra, a glass of wine, La Madeleine, Place Vendôme and then the walk home. Then a long walk (unintended) for dinner at Vins et Terroirs. Set a record 11.1 miles.
Day 16
Monique’s birthday!!!!! Headed off to the Museum de Cluny but as it turned out was closed so will go another time. So instead walked along the Quai de Tournelle and Quai St. Bernard to the Jardin des Plantes (a large park associated with the Natural History Museum, there is also a z00). After that a walk, along the Seine in the Musée de Sculpture de Plein Air. For the first time got caught in the rain. Celebrated Monique’s birthday at Le Train Bleu in the Gare de Lyon. Best way to describe it would be that it is like being in a old CN\CP hotel. Like when we went to Delmonico s in NYC, overpriced but excellent food (Lamb and filet), impeccable service and a wonderful environment.
Day 17
This was supposed to be a day off. A movie and relaxing in a sidewalk cafe somewhere. Then we realized we had a reservation for an improv show that evening. So took in the movie (Aging Gigolo) , did the Cluny museum (Medieval History), and then had dinner in the Marais close to the theatre – The Excelsior. As we were getting close to show time, asked for our dessert quickly. The waitress said go to the show and come back for the dessert, when we tried to pay, she asaid, pay when you come back. For a day off we still walked almost 5 miles.
Day 18
An even later start than usual. Many of these late starts can of course be blamed on the bottle of wine the night before.  Walked the Viaduc des Arts. Which is the High Line (NYC) of Paris. Started at Bastille and ended close to the Bois de Vincennes. A beautiful park with a small lake. At the end of the park we walked through the biggest Midway ( Foire du Trône) we had ever seen, it went on and on. About 10x the size of the one that used to be at the Ottawa Ex. After walking through trees and plants all day, it seemed strange when we got off the Metro on Saint Germain - back in the City. Had dinner at a lovely little restaurant close to the Sorbonne, Les Fêtes Galantes. The desserts were incredible.
Day 19
The Louvre. Massive, complicated, hard to get around and incredible works of art. Saw the big 6 and many others. A big day. Its Friday, so Jamaican Rum at home and dinner will be pizza around the corner.
Day 20
Went out to explore the Avenue des Martyrs filled with meat shops, cheese shops and pastry shops. Then up to Montmartre to visit Basicila Sacré Coeur and explored the hill with 10,000 other people in a 4 sq block area. Took advantage of one restaurant special - 6 oysters and a glass of wine for 8.5 Euro. On the way back down picked up various cheeses, meats and pastries plus a baguette for dinner.
Day 21
Tour Day. Took a day tour, first of Monet’s house and gardens in Giverny and then on to Versailles with a lunch at a nice restaurant – old mill along a river in between. The Gardens were beautiful despite the fact that it rained for 15 minutes in the middle, Versailles a little rushed and crowded but the fountains were on in the gardens – overall still a relaxing day. Dinner at a very nice little restaurant Pere Louis.
Day 22
Started with L’Orangerie today, which next to the Musée D’Orsay, is a top museum for Impressionists paintings. Monet’s Water Lilies are there as well as a great Renoir collection plus others. After that we walked around the Pigalle area, a more seedy side of Paris and then had dinner in the Montmartre area at Le Relais Gascon – went up to Sacré Coeur again to look at the lights of Paris. However left a little early as we could see neither the Eiffel tower or the Arc de Triomphe. We did sit at the bottom of hill, had a coffee and watch Sacré Coeur light up.
Day 23
Another Tour day. The cathedral at Reims and a tour of 2 champagne wineries: Mumms and Moët et Chandon. The cathedral was fantastic but slightly disappointing as part of the front was covered up for restoration work. The tours were so so. Had a big lunch at Le Carnot so supper will be sandwiches but with a Châteauneuf-du-Pape.
Day 24
We started with the Rodin Museum which as it turns out is one of the most pleasant in visiting terms with many of his statues spread out in a beautiful garden. Also saw a special exibit comparing the work of Rodin with american photographer Mapplethorpe. Next it was on to the Grand Magasins – Galeries Lafayette and Au Printemps. Two huge stores spread out over a number of buildings and kind of a combination of The Bay, Macy’s, Bloomingdales, Barneys and Saks 5th Avenue. With shopping finished back to the Eiffel Tower area for dinner. The restaurant we were looking for was not there but found a gem – La Poule au Pot – incredible food and the best pastry we have tasted in a month. Decided that it would probably be the best place to have our last dinner in Paris. Then viewing of the Eiffel Tower by night, Notre Dame by night and a walk along the Seine.
Day 25
Disaster struck!!!!!!!!!!!!! The memory chip for the camera became corrupted. Thank God everything but Day 24 was on the computer and we did manage, using software from the Internet, to recover a few. Hopefully once we get home we can get more. We immediately made a 2nd back-up of all. The rest of the day was spend trying to get a new card, it being May 1, everything was closed (Labour Day – streets filled of Lillies of the Valley sellers which Monique had to buy). Finally found a card at Gare l’Est. It was very cold and very rainy so didn’t do much for the rest of the day. Returned to Père Louis for dinner.
Day 26
Two days to go. There is not much left on the list. Was too rainy for Bois de Boulogne – so first to Place d’Italie with an outdoor market and then finished the 7th. The Champs de Mars in front or behind the Eiffel Tower (depending on you perspective), L’École Militaire, Avenue Émile Zola, Place Alfred Dreyfus, down to the Seine and a nice late lunch at Regalia. Too late and too cold to make the Jardins des Tournelles so they will have to wait to next time. Friday night, so once again, back to the Italian restaurant for pizza.
Day 27
The last full day and the sun is out so off to the Bois de Boulogne. It is a large park on the other side of Paris from the Bois de Vincennes. Although it has somewhat of a bad reputation at night, we were there during the day and it was filled with people enjoying their Saturday. After the day in the park it was home to pack. For our last dinner in Paris – we returned to the La Poule au Pot and were well rewarded for the choice. A wonderful meal and we started with the choice we made 27 days earlier “steak and frites” but this time it was much better. Then retraced our steps from a few nights before to take pictures we had lost in the camera crash and finally last minute shopping.
Day 28
Time to go home!! Up early to have our last breakfast baguette with butter, peanut butter, caramel au beurre de sel, ham and cheese. What am I going to miss most, that so wonderful baguette with butter. Even the brown bread bread is spectacular in France. Then the uneventful trip home all 16 hrs of it and a friendly face – Hubert Simard to pick us up. Home Sweet Home!!!!
What next year???? Supposed to be China but are we prepared for those long, long flights.   There is a lot of discussion about a return to NYC???????
